Discovering Kaua’i – Days 1 and 2

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 2011 got off to a great start from a travel perspective. I was attending the Pacific Telecom Conference, in Oahu HI; so my wife and I decided to escape the New York winter for a week. Barely two months into the winter in NY and already we had been subject to two snow  storms, the likes of which had not been witnessed in over 40 years. A flight, half way around the world, to escape to the volcanic islands of Hawai’i sounded as welcoming as a cup of steaming chai on a cold rainy evening. After much deliberation and some  consultation with pro-photographer Paul Timpa, we settled on the island of Kaua’i.  The garden isle, easily the most lush of all Hawaiian islands, has a stunning and varied topography . This rugged volcanic rock boasts fearsome surf, beaches, cliffs, waterfalls, arid  canyons, rivers, mountains, caves and tunnels. The summit of Mount Wai’ale’ale is the wettest spot on earth based on the number of consecutive days of rainfall it attracts, and to think that it shares the same piece of real-estate as the dry Waimea Canyon is mind-  boggling. Add to this some stunning hikes, outstanding restaurants featuring local seafood, panoramic drives, attractions including open-door helicopter rides, whale watching cruises, zip lining above treetops and snorkeling in shallow reefs; and you’ve got yourself  one travel destination that you have to check off your wish-list at least once.

Kaua’i is broadly broken up into the north, south, east and west shores and the breathtaking Na Pali coast. Each of the shores has it’s share of must-sees and I recommend at least 5 days (if not 7) to enjoy most of what Kaua’i has to offer. For mostly everyone making  the trip from the mainland anything shorter would be criminal. We stayed at the understated but functional Aston Aloha Beach Resort on the outskirts of the town of Kapa’a on the east shore and rented a car to get around the island. The island is accessible by road in  the form of the letter “U” roughly. The Waimea Canyon drive is as far west as you can go and Ke’e beach marks the end of the road on the north-east. The Na Pali coast links the rest of the island and can only be viewed by air or sea.

Day 1: Having flown in from Oahu early in the afternoon I had some time to kill before Dipali’s flight got in from the mainland. I picked up the car from the rental agency, checked into the hotel and availed myself a copy of the The Ultimate Kaua’i Guidebook by Andrew Doughty from a local store (best investment I made). I spent the rest of the afternoon in a Starbucks, reading the book and ear-marking the recommended things to do, sights to see and places to eat. The airport is a small, no-fuss affair in the town of Lihu’e; a far cry from JFK, LaGuardia and Newark International in NY. Lihu’e also has a Walmart, so don’t fret if you have forgotten your sunblock, slippers or even your speedos .

After picking Dipali up at the airport and dropping her bags off at the room, we headed to our first waterfall – the lacy ‘Opaeka’a falls in Wailua. The word ‘Opaeka’a means rolling shrimp, referring to the crustaceans often found in the pool at the base of the falls. These falls are not accessible by river or trail but the lookout point on Kuamo’o Road offers stunning views. There are clear signs leading up to the lookout point from Highway 56, one of the few major roads connecting Kaua’i. While at the lookout point we experienced a light but refreshing rain-shower, what the locals refer to as a little Hawaiian blessing.

The lacy ‘Opaeka’a Falls – Wailua Kaua’i 

That night we had dinner at the Beach House Restaurant in Koloa. The restaurant has a delectable selection of local island fish in addition to the standard seafood and steak fare and an awesome top-shelf Mai Tai.

Day 2: Kaua’i last witnessed a major hurricane in 1992. One of the stranger fallouts of that hurricane was ….hold your breath….chickens. Believe it or not this domesticated fowl is now part of the wildlife in Kaua’i, surviving and breeding unchecked since having escaped their coops during the storm. Unfortunately due to lack of formal training future generations of roosters were not taught to crow just prior to sunrise; roosters in Kaua’i crow all day long. On the upside, this helped me realize that my hotel room offered a stunning view of the sunrise every morning. I also realized that Lydgate Beach Park, adjoining our resort would be an ideal spot for me to get some great sunrise shots the next day.

We started the day with a hearty breakfast at Cafe Ono in Kapa’a and then decided to drive up to the gorgeous Wailua Falls, which like the ‘Opaeka’a Falls, feed the Wailua River. Much to Dipali’s dismay there was a trail that led to the bottom of the falls but it was slippery and treacherous. Hikers were advised to attempt it at their own risk, which meant there would no assistance if one of us were to slip and break our ankles or much worse…our necks. Deciding not to risk it I took some great shots of the falls, while Dipali acquainted herself with a darling chocolate lab, who belonged to a local selling coconut-leaf hats at this popular tourist site. We timed it perfectly because as soon as we were pulling out of the parking spot a bus-load of tourists arrived to see the falls.

From the top 
- The gorgeous Wailua Falls seen from the lookout point. There is an unofficial trail that leads to the bottom, which we chose not to risk
- Dipali makes a new friend
- Dipali with the falls in the background
- The Wailua Falls witnessed from the air courtesy of Jack Harter Helicopters

After the Wailua Falls it was time for the most anticipated attraction we had signed up for, thanks to the suggestion of pro photographer Paul Timpa – Jack Harter Helicopter’s 60 minute, open-door helicopter ride over Kauai. The 60 minute ride included sights of the Manawaiopuna Falls of Jursassic Park fame, the Waimea Canyon, the stunning Na Pali coast, the North Shore, Hanalei Bay, Mount Wai’ale’ale and the Wailua Falls. For anyone visiting Kaua’i this open door chopper ride, though pricey, provides a spectacular perspective of this gorgeous island and if you are going to allow yourself only one attraction on your trip, let this be it.

The stunning Na Pali coast that connects the island of Kaua’i in the north. It is accessible only by air or boat

Clockwise from the top  1. The Wailua Falls  2. The Manawoiopuna Falls of  Jurassic Park Fame 3. Waterfall bisecting the cliffs of the Waimea Canyon 4. Surf  against the Na Pali coast, 5. Waterfall studded sides of Mount Wai’ale’ale 6. The gorgeous Hanapepe Valley

Our Ride. Notice the open doors. This ride is a must for photographers looking to get an unobstructed view. You just have to spend the first  5 minutes convincing yourself that you are not going to fly off. 

We spent the rest of the day tanning ourselves and swimming in the shallow reef at Lydgate Beach Park and ended the day on a high note with dinner and Mai Tais at Scotty’s Beachside BBQ in Kapa’a.

Continue reading about this trip – Days 3 and 4

-S

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